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  • Whale meat pickled in miso, bottarga, sardines simmered with sansho pepper, chicken liver and cheese crackers, banded coral shrimp steeped in rice porridge, black konjac grilled in fragrant soy sauce, fava-bean dumpling shaped like a paper lantern, seared thick Kyoto-style fried tofu with butterbur miso, and crunchy pickled plum and crunchy udo, a mountain vegetable, on pine-needle skewers