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Bell pepper and lily bulb terrine, bottarga and daikon stuffed into dried persimmon, grilled eel sushi, arrowhead bulb matsukaze, millet wheat-gluten cake glazed with sweet miso, flounder kombu roll

These are the appetizers. For the bell pepper and lily bulb terrine, you must let the mixture of yellow bell pepper and lily bulb cool completely…

Yuzu shell cup, cod milt baked in white sauce

For the appetizer, I used yuzu sent to us in large quantities from our affiliated kappō ryokan in Fukushima; since it would be a waste to use only…

Monkfish liver wrapped in thin daikon, oysters with grated daikon dressing, persimmon with tofu dressing, herring roe on kelp, egg-yolk sushi in a rope-pattern roll

For the appetizers, each dish was plated in its own small cup (mamechoko). I think there's also something enjoyable about the idea of guests picking…

Spanish mackerel and mozuku soba, shrimp folded in a zigzag shape

This is the soup course. Since the soba noodles have mozuku kneaded into the dough, they have a strong bite, so the key point is to boil them a bit…

• ¥225

• Cook time 20 min

Pickled plum chawanmushi

For the steamed course (mushimono), the umeboshi chawanmushi came from wanting something with a bit of a bite in the mouth, so I tried combining it…

Greeneye fish, Hakata-style, matsutake mushroom, monkfish liver

As for the greeneye fish (mehikari) Hakata-style, mehikari is a deep-sea fish, similar to a male shishamo smelt. In females the roe has a strong…

• ¥428

• Cook time 20 min

Wild yam deep-fried, wrapped in tofu skin

As for the wild yam tōji-age, the texture combines the springy bite of a fish-paste dumpling with the moist, tender quality of wild yam. I feel…

• ¥106

• Cook time 25 min

Duck meatballs

As for the duck tsumire in the clear-soup course (owan): we're particular about chickens too, choosing different breeds for different purposes and…

New bamboo shoot simmered in happō dashi, kuruma prawn simmered with its own miso, Kyoto taro simmered to absorb the broth, pinecone-cut arrowhead bulb

For the simmered course, the kuruma prawn simmered with its own miso is often made by combining the prawn's own miso with country-style miso and…

Deep-fried whiting burdock roll

As for the deep-fried whiting yawata-maki in the fried course, whiting good enough to serve even as sashimi comes in cheaply and in large quantities…

Iwaki shellfish bake, sea bream and burdock root roll, abalone and sea urchin grill

All of the ingredients are sourced from Iwaki. The sea bream and burdock root roll is a well-matched pairing — sea bream at this time of year is rich…

• ¥345

• Cook time 30 min

Teriyaki-grilled butterfish

For the grilled course, we don't fuss over it too much — we often serve fish that we fillet ourselves from local catch and turn into dried fish. It…

Japanese stargazer, blackthroat seaperch, spear squid

As for the o-tsukuri (sashimi course), we source our fish directly from the fishing ports of Niigata, Miura, and Chōshi. Guests seem to feel more at…