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Squid with Sea Urchin

This is squid with sea urchin. The rich dashi is aerated into foam using an espuma siphon. I cut the squid into wave-shaped sashimi blocks, give it a…

Spear squid

This is the appetizer course. First, I combine spear squid with a freshwater alga, a lantern-shaped fluffy cod preparation, flowering sansho pepper…

Kujō scallion ohitashi, seared surf clam

What's in the tall vessel is a lightly simmered, marinated dish of Kujō green onion. Seared Ezo surf clam is tossed together with it, and on top is…

Sea urchin, misty jellied mold; kombu-cured flounder with chrysanthemum petals; sesame-flavored eggplant Rikyu-yose

First, these are three appetizer dishes. What is in the glass is the sea urchin's misty jellied mold. A thin rice-gruel base is set with gelatin, and…

Salmon Cured in Olive Oil

For the salmon cured in olive oil, I salt the salmon heavily, sprinkle it with the herb dill, and let it sit for around thirty hours — longer in…

Herring roe wrapped with sprouts

Winter Duck Wrapped in Napa Cabbage

For the winter duck wrapped in napa cabbage, put duck that has had its fat removed into a stock seasoned with ketchup and the like, bring it just to…

Yuba pickled in salt-fermented bonito viscera

●Yuba Pickled in Shuto: the shuto — salted, fermented bonito innards — is rinsed in water and left to steep in sake with the alcohol cooked off. The…

Dried sea cucumber ovary, sake-grilled

Lily bulb and Hakata-style smoked salmon

Freshly ladled tofu skin, nori-wrapped roll, wasabi, seasoned soy dipping sauce

Simmered namasu

Ni-namasu is a Kyoto obanzai (everyday home-style) dish, and a New Year's dish. It has a crisp, crunchy texture, and since it's prepared with…

Doyo-season shijimi clams grilled Mikawa-style, ginkgo-filled pancake confection

For the shijimi clams of the doyo season grilled Mikawa-style, pond snails, which are in season around this time, would work just as well. Ground…

Assorted mushrooms simmered country-style

For assorted mushrooms simmered country-style, this time of year, various kinds of mushrooms mixed together appear on the market as assorted…

Sweet shrimp with salt-cured shrimp-head paste dressing

For sweet shrimp with uzui dressing, we use the head paste of maki-ebi shrimp that has been salt-cured and preserved. This keeps well for six months…

Smoked salmon, chrysanthemum-style cure

Smoked autumn-run bonito

For the smoked modori-gatsuo (fall bonito), the bonito is lightly seared to a tataki state, marinated, and then smoked. If it is cooked through…

Young sea bass wrapped in soba

As for the fukko wrapped in soba, my shop started making hand-cut soba about three years ago, and it inevitably produces scraps and off-cuts…

Small bowl: snow peas and new burdock, tofu-dressed

Sakura-chaya was founded in Showa 8 — 1933 — and is the third-oldest established ryotei, a traditional Japanese restaurant, in Mukojima, a district…

Bracken fern with walnut dressing

As for the bracken fern (warabi) with walnut dressing: my sister back home in Yamagata sends me large quantities of salt-pickled warabi, so I…

Cloth-wrung bundle of bottarga rice

The bottarga rice cloth-wrung bundle, one of the five sake accompaniments: mix trimmings of mullet roe — the roe used for karasumi — into plain…

Pufferfish milt

For the appetizer, the fugu shirako and dried sea-cucumber ovary are simply seared and set on a warmed stone — but I think that alone makes for a…

Amagi Wasabi Dressing

For the Amagi wasabi dressing, I order wasabi from the Amagi region and use it in the dressing. Since this dish is made entirely from vegetables, I…

Chestnut and Walnut Salad

For the appetizer course's chestnut and walnut salad, the area around Komoro and Tomi, near Karuizawa where I currently work, is called 'the village…