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Kuruma Prawn Checkerboard, Kinko and Scallop Shinjo Wrap, Mountain Yam and Salmon Roe, Sesame Daigo, Warm-Smoked Salmon Kinuta-Maki, Early Bamboo Shoot in Habutae Kinome Coating

These are the appetizers. For the kinko (a traditional dried sea cucumber) and scallop fish-paste dumpling wrap: when I was young I was taught to…

Grilled new-season Pacific saury wrapped around grilled eggplant, with liver sauce

This is a grilled dish. September is the season for Pacific saury, so every year we serve this new-season Pacific saury rolled with grilled eggplant…

Grilled Matsutake Steeped with Chrysanthemum Petals, Black Olive Coating Salad, Celeriac Mousse, Grilled Chicken White Liver with Toast, Sado Shrimp with Caviar, Wagyu Tongue Simmered Tender, Salmon and Lotus Root Roll with Process Cheese

This is the seasonal-vegetable course. We'll go through it in order. First is the grilled matsutake steeped with chrysanthemum petals. We simply boil…

Wakasa-style grilled tilefish

For the yakimono tilefish wakasa-yaki, the tilefish is wind-dried, brushed lightly with light soy sauce, and grilled over a distant flame so the skin…

Blanched and seasoned Japanese mustard spinach

Komatsuna is also called winter greens, and it becomes sweeter and more delicious once the frost has fallen. The komatsuna sold today is a hybrid…

Butterfish grilled on a cedar plank, autumn salmon and roe grilled together, pine-cone-scored squid teriyaki, pressed dried sardine grilled autumn-leaf style

Salt-cured pork thin-skin roll, Moriguchi daikon rolled in paper-thin kombu, sea cucumber styled as old wood, blowfish grilled with ichimi chili, crab, jellyfish head, kuzu tofu

This is a six-item small-bowl course. The salt-cured pork thin-skin roll: the method for making the salt-cured pork was based on Okinawa's sūchikā…

Julienned vegetable and pork broth

For sawani soup, drying the maitake mushrooms once beforehand keeps their crisp texture. Black maitake also releases color, and drying it brings out…

Parcel-grilled beltfish, Spanish mackerel rolled with shredded vegetable filling and grilled, eel-fin rolls

For the grilled course's eel-fin rolls: there is a variety of sweet pepper that's thick, long, and not very spicy, which I cut into thin strips…

Buckwheat-dumpling-style Tanba steamed dish, saury simmered in vinegar, oyster grilled with sansho pepper, crystal ginkgo, butterfish salt-grilled, sweet potato simmered in bitter orange, mushroom marinade, persimmon and muscat grape cream-cheese shira-ae, fig dengaku

This is a nine-item appetizer assortment. For the soba-gaki-style tamba-mushi, the sweetness of the chestnuts varies considerably by season, so the…

Roasted sweet potato, mountain yam grilled with sea urchin miso, layered grilled snow crab, stone-wall-style grilled shinjo, duck akebono-yaki, dried persimmon ikomi, and ginkgo nuts dressed with roe

As for the stone-wall-style grilled shinjo among the grilled dishes: we peel Ishikawa taro, a satoimo cultivar, coat it in squid ink, and let it rest…

Nanatsuboshi sardine dressed with okara, fava bean and cherry-blossom fragrance jelly, udo deep-fried Tosa-style

Three spring-color dishes. First, nanatsuboshi ("seven stars") dressed with okara: nanatsuboshi is another name for sardine, so called for the spots…

Herring roe and mountain yam, black soybeans and lily bulb, candied dried sardines and walnuts

The three-item assortment of celebratory dishes is delicious even prepared in the old-fashioned way, but I added a small twist to each. For the…

Firefly squid simmered in shuto, sea bream milt in savory broth, grilled bamboo shoot, two-tone dyed lotus root, green peas simmered to a jade-green hue

For the firefly squid shuto-simmered, firefly squid spoils quickly and is difficult for the younger kitchen staff to manage, so it is simmered in a…

Pen Shell and Kuruma Prawn in Amber Sauce, Kombu-Cured Kisu with Yōrō Yam Sauce, Anago with Crushed Soybean Dressing, Turban Shell and New Potato with Liver Dressing, Steamed Abalone

This is the sakizuke course, an appetizer. The fig is peeled of its thin skin and steamed briefly to soften it. The eggplant is deep-fried in oil…

Wagyu and round eggplant, cold shabu-shabu style

This is a chilled course. Here too we use eggplant. The eggplant is peeled, deep-fried, then steeped in a soy sauce with Chinese-style vinegar and…

Octopus, Taro, Kabocha Squash, Green Beans, and Yuzu

This is a kabocha squash dish. Consulting the literature, the temperature and time at which pectin hardens and at which a vegetable breaks down are…

• Serves 1 · ¥300

• Cook time 1 hr

Horsehair-crab meat, lantern-shaped salmon sushi, eel sandwich, abalone and sudachi-citrus sandwich, tender-simmered octopus, corn-shaped seared sweet potato, dark seaweed with grated daikon and miso, lightly steamed chicken gizzard, herring-roe wakame fritter

For the picked horsehair-crab meat, we boil the crab in roughly 2% salted water for about 20 minutes, turn off the heat, let it stand for ten…

Chrysanthemum-style barracuda, sweetfish simmered Arima-style with sansho pepper, lotus root crisp, chestnut and chicken liver, akebia with lily bulb, century egg and cheese with yuzu miso, pike conger fried in kuzu batter, knotted ginkgo, persimmon and egg

This is an assembled sake-accompaniment course. For the chrysanthemum-style barracuda, the barracuda is filleted into three pieces, salted, and…

Tilefish grilled with three flavors, hairy crab, late-season matsutake wrapped in Joshu pork, Joshu pork spare ribs, Joshu pork heart and liver

For the grilled course, I tried smoke-grilling using an Iga-nabe (Iga pot). This Iga-nabe has a distinctive shape and a very strong far-infrared…

Pufferfish skin chakin bundle filled with milt / black daikon from Keihoku, Kyoto

For the fugu-skin chakin bundle with milt in the soup course, we combine fish paste with an egg base. We mix chopped fugu skin and the fish-paste…

Wagyu Sansho Pepper Roast Beef

This is a course served toward the end of the meal. For the wagyu sansho pepper roast beef: prepare the Japanese Black wagyu, rub in salt, pepper and…

Taro simmered in all-purpose seasoned dashi, simmered young bamboo shoot, carrot simmered with plum paste, quail dumplings, snap peas

Shinano yukimasu ogawa roll wrapped in nozawana, rapeseed blossom-apple-iwana oyako koji dressing, Shinshu beef and chrysanthemum-greens checkerboard hakusen-age, three-colored egg terrine with cherry blossoms, miso-marinated fuki wrapped tōji-style in yuba and grilled, runner bean awayuki terrine, leaf wasabi and yam sushi

Let's begin with the appetizers. For the Shinano yukimasu ogawa roll wrapped in nozawana, ogawa is normally made using minced squid or white fish…