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Sado yellowtail grilled with perilla

Splendid alfonsino, horse mackerel, ark shell clam, giant clam

Flounder, ark shell clam, and a sea urchin roll with Daigo tofu skin, a specialty of Ibaraki

Sea bream, Japanese halfbeak, squid, and spiny lobster

For the sashimi, we staged a theme around Kyokusui no En — the 'winding water banquet,' a Heian-era poetry party where wine cups floated down a…

Small Sea Bream Wrapped in Okara and Deep-Fried

Snow crab meat

Thin kuzu-starch broth style

Ark shell, hard clam, and rapeseed blossoms, sea bream roe simmered to absorb the broth, herring-roe wakame, fava beans simmered green, kuruma prawn for color, sardine and soybean stew, Kyoto carrot cut into plum blossoms

Herring wrapped in wakame, mugwort wheat gluten wrapped in bamboo shoot inner skin, simmered conger eel in a paper-thin wrap, kuruma prawn minced-prawn cake, tube-cut burdock, plum-shaped carrot, butterbur simmered green

Whiting sandwiched with shrimp shinjo paste, deep-fried

For the fried course's whiting futami-age, rather than filleting the whiting into three pieces, I butterfly it open leaving the tail attached, remove…

Summer vegetables and eel simmered Arima-style with sansho pepper

As for the simmered course's eel Arima-ni, after the eel is grilled, while it's still hot I push the bones up from the bottom toward the top and pull…

Pike conger tube-shaped fish cake grilled with fish-innard preserve

For the grilled course's pike conger chikuwa shuto-yaki, the scraped pike conger flesh is seasoned at its base with egg, but since it's then coated…

Sea Bass Smoke-Grilled with Uji Tea Fragrance

The grilled course's sea bass smoke-grilled with Uji tea fragrance is actually wrapped in Mino paper and baked, designed so that when the guest…

Fat greenling Yoshino-style, tube-cut burdock

Horse mackerel dressed with okara

Smoked salmon, chrysanthemum-style cure

Fugu Skin with Ponzu Dressing

This time it's a vinegared dish, but at our restaurant we don't force a sunomono course into every menu — we serve it within the sakizuke, the…

Smoked autumn-run bonito

For the smoked modori-gatsuo (fall bonito), the bonito is lightly seared to a tataki state, marinated, and then smoked. If it is cooked through…

Napa cabbage pureed soup, grilled fugu

This soup course is meant to evoke a pufferfish hot pot. A ponzu jelly ball is floated in the broth, giving the soup a clean, refreshing finish, I…

Mackerel dumplings in a clear seafood broth

Since these are soup-bowl courses we normally serve at the restaurant in autumn, I made three: a clear seafood broth; julienned vegetable clear soup;…

Clear-soup style tilefish coated in roasted grain powder

For the soup course's full-moon tofu flecked to resemble bush-clover blossoms, since it's a clear-soup preparation, I've set it soft. The liquid left…

Largehead beltfish, stuffed and grilled Horikawa-style

The grilled course's largehead beltfish Horikawa-style -- a style named for Kyoto's hollow Horikawa burdock, here applied by wrapping the fish itself…

Bluefin tuna cut into small cubes, Ise lobster rinsed in equal parts sake and water, sea bream rolled with mixed julienned vegetables, cuttlefish

Cherry-scented grilled tilefish

Sakura-chaya was founded in Showa 8 (1933) and is the third-oldest established ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant) in Mukojima, a district lined…