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Assorted platter: nanban-style grilled barracuda, kabosu simmered in light syrup, Uda-kin burdock, tilefish with black rice, avocado baked in its shell, three kinds of rolled deep-fry

During the pandemic there was a period when ingredients were hard to come by, so I had to cook with whatever limited ingredients I had on hand. I'd…

• Serves 1 · ¥1,570

• Cook time 50 min

Bulbil rice

This time, we learned about "rice dishes" from Master Instructor Shimizu (Kissho, Kioicho). We feature "mukago rice."

Mochi-textured abalone with persimmon vinegar, Tamba chestnuts simmered in coffee, autumn ayu with water-pepper miso, walnut tofu wrung in cloth, sea urchin jelly with yam bulbils, young kuruma prawns, thin-sliced burdock, jade-green ginkgo nuts, cuttlefish grilled with salted fish innards, moon-viewing lily-bulb dumplings

This is the appetizer course, and I put particular effort into it. For the abalone in the mochi-textured abalone with persimmon vinegar dressing, it…

Autumn-leaf assortment: oyster and persimmon miso gratin, shrimp and water caltrop grilled with yuzu, scallop autumn-color pickle, small clam adductor in apple vinegar, shuto cheese, persimmon and salmon, rolled dried persimmon, matcha red bean paste with skin-on chestnut

As a reconception of dishes favored in Tokyo and Niigata cuisine, this evokes a late-autumn medley. We designed each dish with an eye to color…

• Serves 1 · ¥2,475

• Cook time 1 hr

Oyster lightly salted then sun-dried

The deep-fried dish is overnight-dried oyster. We rarely used to use oysters in the past, but advances in fisheries technology have made it possible…

• Serves 1 · ¥800

• Cook time 20 min

Shinshu giant char cylinder roll, char roe in soy marinade, autumn fruit and walnut mousse, Shinshu pork steamed with sansho, grilled maitake with foie gras, chrysanthemum petal salad, Shinshu salmon with egg-yolk mustard sauce

This is an appetizer presented in hassun (seasonal-assortment course) style, using Nagano Prefecture's prized traditional vegetables and, since it is…

• Serves 1 · ¥350

• Cook time 1 hr

Steamed abalone, pine-needle-skewered ginkgo nut, yam bulbil, Japanese walnut, maple-leaf wheat gluten, arrowhead bulb, ginkgo-leaf-shaped sweet potato, matsutake, soft-boiled egg, sea urchin and liver sauce

Valuing the color of the dish — a key point of Japanese cuisine.

Isobe-style abalone, crinkled abalone, shaved dried abalone (the eggplant myth)

This is the opening dish of the abalone course. For isobe-style abalone, the adductor muscle of the abalone is grated to make a ground abalone paste…

• ¥2,540

• Cook time 1 hr

Fuku deep-fried in egg-yolk batter, clam deep-fried in a freshly milled rice-flour coating, black soybean deep-fried in a fawn-spotted coating

This is the deep-fried course. For the fuku deep-fried in egg-yolk batter, since it's the New Year I call the fugu "fuku" — a play on the word for…

• ¥560

• Cook time 20 min