
Smoked autumn-run bonito
For the smoked modori-gatsuo (fall bonito), the bonito is lightly seared to a tataki state, marinated, and then smoked. If it is cooked through…
Seafood & Seaweed

For the smoked modori-gatsuo (fall bonito), the bonito is lightly seared to a tataki state, marinated, and then smoked. If it is cooked through…

Akasaka/Akasaka Hikawa
Masaru Tanaka
This soup course is meant to evoke a pufferfish hot pot. A ponzu jelly ball is floated in the broth, giving the soup a clean, refreshing finish, I…

The soup course is sesame tofu. Bracken fern and petal-cut carrot and udo are used as garnish, with Shimonita leek, a thick, sweet regional variety…

Okunitama Shrine Wedding Hall
For the soup course's full-moon tofu flecked to resemble bush-clover blossoms, since it's a clear-soup preparation, I've set it soft. The liquid left…

For the deep-fried dish, shrimp-and-ashitaba (a Japanese angelica herb) rolls, 'fresh greenery' style: rather than boiling the ashitaba, I saute it…

The grilled course's largehead beltfish Horikawa-style -- a style named for Kyoto's hollow Horikawa burdock, here applied by wrapping the fish itself…


Akasaka/Akasaka Hikawa
Masaru Tanaka
This fried course is smoked pike conger. Smoking suits any refined white fish, but it becomes truly delicious once you work a touch of sweetness into…

Sakura-chaya was founded in Showa 8 (1933) and is the third-oldest established ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurant) in Mukojima, a district lined…

Tsukiji Tamura
The deep-fried course, daifuku shiitake and simmered abalone, is made by cutting shiitake mushrooms, skewering them on bamboo skewers, and…

For the sayori kirazu sushi, we blanch the okara — also called kirazu — briefly in hot water and squeeze it dry, season it the same way as sushi…

Uenoikenohata Kaien-tei
The larch bolete mushroom in this simmered dish is one that's salt-preserved in places like Shinshu, Nagano; we boil it, rinse it in water, and let…

Hatagaya, Shonaisho
As for the bracken fern (warabi) with walnut dressing: my sister back home in Yamagata sends me large quantities of salt-pickled warabi, so I…

Hatagaya, Shonaisho
The bottarga rice cloth-wrung bundle, one of the five sake accompaniments: mix trimmings of mullet roe — the roe used for karasumi — into plain…

For the hot dish course, the conger eel tsuto (straw-bundle) roll: simmer the conger eel until tender, bind it with fish paste as a binder, and roll…

For the simmered course's nagaimo in shirozake (sweet white sake), since Shinshu has many sake breweries, I used the local shirozake to simmer it a…

For the appetizer, the fugu shirako and dried sea-cucumber ovary are simply seared and set on a warmed stone — but I think that alone makes for a…

For the grilled course's Shonai-fu ginkgo-leaf-style grill: I wanted to make a grilled dish using inexpensive Shonai-fu (a wheat-gluten product from…


Karuizawa Present Resort Karuizawa
Takeharu Kadowaki
For the appetizer course's chestnut and walnut salad, the area around Komoro and Tomi, near Karuizawa where I currently work, is called 'the village…

For the grilled course's flavor-grilled cod, cod milt paste is often paired generously with white sauce, but I use only a hint of it, mixing in fresh…

For the steamed sea urchin warm-smoked with pine, I place cherry-wood chips, sugar, and pine needles in a wok, set a wire rack over them, cover with…

For the appetizer's red-and-white herring roe: I marinate the herring roe (kazunoko) in two different bases — a Saikyo miso, sake-lees, and…

Shibaura Kaiseki "Peony"
For the celebratory dish of fortune milt with sprouting greens: I line the vessel with kuzu-thickened ponzu, pour tiger pufferfish milt over it, and…
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