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Uni and egg truffle rice

This is the rice course. Truffle rice is cooked in chicken stock, scrambled egg is made in a small frying pan, and uni (sea urchin) is added before…

Steamed abalone, pine-needle-skewered ginkgo nut, yam bulbil, Japanese walnut, maple-leaf wheat gluten, arrowhead bulb, ginkgo-leaf-shaped sweet potato, matsutake, soft-boiled egg, sea urchin and liver sauce

Valuing the color of the dish — a key point of Japanese cuisine.

Wagyu Beef Thigh Simmered in Black Vinegar

For the wagyu beef thigh simmered in black vinegar, the meat is soaked for three to four hours, taking time to draw out the fat. It is then simmered…

Kombu-cured flounder Hakata, bottarga and daikon Hakata, herring roe in snow, miso-marinated abalone, clam and turnip sushi, lily bulb monaka

These are the appetizers, but before the dishes themselves, let me say a word about the tableware. Last year Chūson-ji Konjiki-dō in Hiraizumi, Iwate…

Abalone and La France Pear

For the final savory course, Nagano Prefecture, along with Yamagata, is a major producer of La France pears. Highland-grown tricolor bell peppers are…

Matsutake Dobin-Mushi

This is a clear-soup course. For the matsutake teapot-steamed soup, matsutake mushroom, pike conger, small kuruma prawns, and chicken are arranged in…

• ¥1,000

• Cook time 20 min

Autumn grasses presentation

This is the clear-soup course. Kombu is steeped in water at around 68°C for about thirty minutes to make kombu-infused water. The pike conger is…

Sea bream salt-fermented; whiting tossed with masago; small sea bream sushi with egg-yolk vinegar; Kakinomoto chrysanthemum; smoked salmon kinuta-maki; yam bulbils salt-steamed

These are the appetizers. For the sea bream shiokara: live shrimp are quickly rinsed just enough to remove any scum, arranged alternately with udo…

Snow-flower grilled splendid alfonsino, pinecone-grilled small abalone, yuzu-shell cup with first-frost salad

For the grilled course, the pinecone-grilled small abalone is scored in a fawn-spot diamond pattern with a knife, then simmered gently — basting it…

Pufferfish sushi, fermented crucian-carp sushi, Shirakawa sea bream grilled with bottarga, beef loin marinated in miso, king crab grilled with aromatics, assorted crackers with dried sea-cucumber ovary, bur-shaped deep-fried chestnut with its inner skin, small sea bream in a chrysanthemum-style sweet-vinegar marinade

For the hors d'oeuvre tray course, I had in mind an outing box lunch for this season — a 'slightly luxurious bento,' say, for maple-leaf viewing —…

Seared autumn sea bream pressed sushi, sweet-vinegar red turnip pickle, lily bulb autumn-foliage mound, "dead-wood" burdock, sudachi-shell cup with salted fish and jelly, lotus root with sea cucumber entrails, oyster fish-paste dumpling, ginkgo nuts on pine-needle skewers

Charcoal-Grilled Koshi no Tori Chicken, Noppe-Style Zoni

A modern take on regional cuisine Original regional dish: noppe Looking back on the history of dishes that have been eaten since long ago, I came to…

• Serves 4 · ¥365.5

• Cook time 3 hr

Sweet Deep-Fried Carp

This is a fried dish reimagining Yamagata's local cuisine. For the Sweet Deep-Fried Carp, in Yamagata in the old days, carp was eaten as an…

• Serves 4 · ¥2,406

• Cook time 1 hr

Abalone and Herring Roe Matsumae-Zuke

For the ai-zakana (accompanying course), abalone and herring roe matsumae-zuke: the abalone is cleaned, salted, topped with daikon, steamed for about…

Oyster baked in a kabocha shell, white fish firewood-bundle grilled, pufferfish grilled with seven-spice, whiting grilled with tofu-vegetable filling

The grilled course's oyster kabocha-kama-yaki has the oysters pan-fried in butter, combined with kabocha paste, tartar sauce, and miso, and served in…

Air-dried barracuda, walnut-style / snow crab and Japanese trefoil in an autumn-brocade dressing / flounder sushi cured Matsumae-style with kelp / smoked giant Pacific octopus / beef tongue simmered in ginger and soy / chrysanthemum-cut turnip / kombu simmered in soy

For the grilled course's snow crab and mitsuba kinshu-ae, the snow crab is given a base seasoning with bonito-flavored vinegar; with any dressed…

Salt-Steamed Abalone, Tosa-Marinated Herring-Roe Kelp Wrapped in White-Silk Yam, Kamaboko Molded with Salmon Milt, Black Rice and Squid Rice, Deep-Fried Megisu with Red Yukari, Simply Grilled Amagi Shiitake with Salmon Roe, Mukago and Tonburi Terrine, Spaghetti Squash and Pine Nuts in a Momiji-Style Dressing

For the Tosa-marinated herring-roe kelp wrapped in white-silk yam, I cut the mountain yam with a knife, soak it in a light alum-salt solution for…

Tilefish and Sea Urchin Grilled, Crab Apple Denpō-Yaki, Obuse Chestnuts Simmered in Their Skins

This is a grilled dish that pairs the tilefish's refined fat with the sea urchin's rich umami. The sauce combines 100 cc white wine, 50 cc light soy…

• Serves 1 · ¥1,100

• Cook time 2 hr

Blackthroat seaperch grilled with sweet white miso, oysters grilled with yuzu, kuruma prawn coated in chestnut and deep-fried, beef rolled around burdock root, blanched chrysanthemum served in a hollowed bitter orange

The round vessel holds the grilled hassun course. For the nodoguro Saikyo-yaki, the nodoguro is marinated in miso. For the oysters grilled with yuzu…

Shellfish and apple namasu; warm-smoked Pacific saury kosode-zushi; sweet potato shaped as chestnuts; burdock deep-fry, aged-wood style; kabocha and beef rolled and simmered; shrimp, crystal-glazed

This is an assembled course of small paired dishes. For the warm-smoked Pacific saury kosode-zushi, a sleeve-shaped pressed sushi, the saury is…

Ginkgo Nut Tofu

Deep-fried tofu fritter, knotted dried daikon

Soft-shell crab deep-fried in a roasted-grain-flour batter, plain deep-fried shiba shrimp, sweet potato crisps, jade ginkgo nuts, and green chili pepper stuffed with a poured filling

The soft-shell crab in the fried course is swimming crab that has just molted. A crab caught right after molting isn't something that's traditionally…

Anmitsu

For the anmitsu, I make agar jelly by simmering down a type of red seaweed, then plate it with salted beans dusted to a soft floury white, smooth…

• ¥500

• Cook time 2 hr