
Ginza Kasuga
Takao Shimada
Wind-Dried Conger Eel
This is an appetizer course. All the fish are salted and lightly wind-dried. For the vegetables, we tried combining dried vegetables with vegetables…
June

Ginza Kasuga
Takao Shimada
This is an appetizer course. All the fish are salted and lightly wind-dried. For the vegetables, we tried combining dried vegetables with vegetables…

Makuhari Hotel The Manhattan Japanese Restaurant Origin
A simmered course. For the winter melon and sun-dried shiitake kinshi (shredded-egg) roll with shark-fin sauce, we make two kinds of shark-fin stock:…

For the dessert (mizumono) course, the mango is from Miyazaki.

For the sashimi course, isaki carries more fat at this time of year, so unless it is thoroughly chilled, the skin can come away while it is being…

Kagurazaka Restaurant Maki
This is another summer standard: fat greenling dusted with kuzu starch. Fresh water shield is quickly blanched, and it's served together with bamboo…

Kagurazaka Restaurant Maki
The first course is abalone simmered until tender. It's a standard dish, but abalone really is the thing for summer. I didn't discard the innards --…

This is Ise ebi saikyo-yaki, but this time I completely hid the spiny lobster's original form. The Ise ebi is curled once, the miso from the head is…

The bamboo shoot pureed soup is made by boiling and cleaning the bamboo shoot, mixing together the tender inner sheath part and the thicker lower…

Last is the additional course. This one takes its cue from Chinese cooking. I've turned a round eggplant into a bowl. For the shark fin, I finish it…

The molokheiya and icefish jelly is made by white-simmering the icefish in sake, water, and a touch of alum so it does not fall apart, then setting…

For the softshell turtle miso, what I really wanted to use instead of long green onion was Kujukuri's "umikko-negi" (literally "child-of-the-sea"…

Fukushima Spa Resort Hawaiians
Yoshiyuki Yanagisawa
The whale koro daisen-ni is made by rehydrating koro from Wakayama's short-finned pilot whales, then simmering it with soybeans in the daisen-ni…

For the closing course, the squid ink udon: squid ink does not set firm, so to keep the noodles from breaking apart, this depth of color is the limit…

Hatagaya, Shonaisho
This is the cold course. Pheasant thigh is the most delicious part of the bird. The thigh is butterflied, seasoned with salt, and left to marinate…

Hatagaya, Shonaisho
This is a simmered soup course. For the pheasant wing, the bone is hollowed out and a hollow burdock root tube is inserted; it's simmered together…

Sendai Unagi Taketei Main Branch
This is the fruit course. The wooden molds used to shape refined wagashi confections are extremely precise — there are only six craftsmen in all of…

Sendai Unagi Taketei Main Branch
This is a seared sashimi. Date Iwana, a Miyagi-prefecture brand, is Japan's first triploid char. It was branded to help shake off the reputational…

Kagurazaka Restaurant Maki
For the sashimi course, I made a rod-cut arai of sea bass. It's refreshing and light, meant to be enjoyed with a reduced sake-and-plum seasoning and…

Tsuburano Shinjuku Gyoen branch
The simmered dish is zenmai shinoda-maki. The reconstituted flowering fern is simmered until it absorbs the seasoning, then rolled in deep-fried tofu…

This is steam-grilled pike conger. I spread on a thin coat of the currently popular salted, fermented rice-malt seasoning, then bone-score the pike…

For the salmon cured in olive oil, I salt the salmon heavily, sprinkle it with the herb dill, and let it sit for around thirty hours — longer in…

For the soup course's green pea shiratama — on a day like today when I can put in the extra effort, I use shiratama, but when things are busy as…

Shiratama Miso Ishino Miso…………………2 kg Sake…………………………1.5 shō (approx. 2.7 L) Mirin………………………290 g Sugar………………………375 g Egg Yolks…………………25
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