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Abalone tororo, pike conger roe and white melon kaminari-boshi, green plum sliced into candied rings, and more

This is an appetizer course. For the abalone tororo: fresh black abalone is cleaned, firmed up thoroughly with salt, then grated. It's combined with…

Shrimp simmered shiba-ni style, green bamboo spiral roll, soft folded egg, sake-steamed abalone, lotus root cream terrine

First, the appetizer course. At the restaurant, we don't serve these together under one single 'appetizer' heading — we present each one separately…

Shinshu salmon, a branded trout hybrid, with silky egg-yolk sauce, abalone and azuki duo mold, fruit tomato and horsehair crab

This is a seasonal-vegetable course. For the Shinshu salmon with silky egg-yolk sauce: the Shinshu salmon is prepared, salted heavily, cut into…

Molded whale terrine with mustard vinegar-miso sauce, savory shrimp sponge cake, conger eel and cucumber roll, two-color rice cracker, abalone and lotus root mannen-ni

First is the assorted small-dishes course. For the molded whale terrine with mustard vinegar-miso sauce, if you set it too firm, the umami is cut in…

Young ayu egg-yolk sushi, eel and pressed dried soybean salad, glazed small river crab, young burdock bundled raft-style, tozan-style grilled abalone, watermelon radish wrapped paper-fold-style, summer octopus rice cracker, long-armed shrimp fried in matcha

The first hassun course. For the young ayu yolk sushi, thin sheet kombu is wiped with sake, folded, and laid in a pan. Simmering it with equal parts…

Snow Crab Momiji-ae, Herring-Roe Wakame Pickled in Sake Lees, Pressed Mackerel Sushi, Fragrant Fried Matsutake, Salt-Steamed Abalone

First, the appetizer course. For the snow crab momiji-ae, snow crab and vegetables would normally be dressed together in a fragrant…

Hokki Clam, New Potato, and Japanese Parsley Tofu Dressing, Cockle, Seared Pen Shell, Tender-Simmered Abalone

This is the sakizuke course, a trio of shellfish for the fragrance of spring. For the surf clam, new potato, and Japanese parsley tofu dressing: the…

• ¥620

• Cook time 1 hr

Chilled somen (abalone, okra, young myoga, shredded egg crepe, chives, ginger)

This time, we learned about "food" from Koji Kimizuka (Yoyogi・Shiki no Aji Horikawa). This time, we will be looking at "somen noodles."

Chinese yam noodles, mock tofu, conger eel rolled around burdock root, young sweetfish in gabion-style sweet potato, Ishikawa taro with cheese miso

This is the appetizer course. For the gisei-dofu, I sauté tofu that has been passed through a sieve together with burdock, carrot, shiitake mushroom…

Horse meat simmered shigure-style, steamed abalone and soft-set egg steeped in a salted rice-malt marinade, slender daikon pickled with Ise ceremonial salt, salmon marinated in wine, kumquat cream cheese, scarlet runner beans simmered to absorb the broth

What's on the raised serving stand is the steamed abalone and soft-set egg steeped in shio-koji. I remove the abalone from its shell, quickly blanch…

Steamed abalone, jade-glazed grilled, whiting deep-fried with aromatic seasoning, fish bone crisps, millet wheat gluten dressed with mashed edamame, grilled sesame tofu and water shield with tomato gelee, sea urchin in the shell grilled with soy milk

Low-Temperature Simmered Abalone, Melting Sesame Tofu, Seared Sea Bass

As a dish meant to help beat the summer heat, I focused above all on practicality while designing it around the theme of "unconventional cold…

• Serves 1 · ¥2,775

• Cook time 2 hr

Herring Roe Tinted with Sea Urchin, Black Bean and Lily Bulb in a Twisted-Cloth Purse, Candied Baby Sardines in a Sweet Rice-Coating Wrap, Two-Color Egg in Green Bamboo, Pine-Needle-Scored Abalone Two Ways, Rolled Salmon, Plum-Blossom Carrot in Saikyo Miso, Snow-Ring Lotus Root in Sweet Vinegar Pickle

Toso-zakana (a New Year's spiced-sake accompaniment), part one. Otoso cuisine refers to the three mitsu-zakana, or auspicious dishes: herring roe…

Butterbur-sprout sesame tofu, abalone in thin layered slices

This is the additional course. For the butterbur-sprout sesame tofu, I carefully clean away the black parts of the butterbur sprouts, separate the…

Abalone Grilled with Sake and Salt, Butter-Flavored

This is the grilled course. For the abalone grilled with sake and salt, I give the abalone a butter flavor. I scrub live abalone thoroughly and clean…

Steamed abalone, pine-needle-skewered ginkgo nut, yam bulbil, Japanese walnut, maple-leaf wheat gluten, arrowhead bulb, ginkgo-leaf-shaped sweet potato, matsutake, soft-boiled egg, sea urchin and liver sauce

Valuing the color of the dish — a key point of Japanese cuisine.

Kombu-cured flounder Hakata, bottarga and daikon Hakata, herring roe in snow, miso-marinated abalone, clam and turnip sushi, lily bulb monaka

These are the appetizers, but before the dishes themselves, let me say a word about the tableware. Last year Chūson-ji Konjiki-dō in Hiraizumi, Iwate…

Nikogori on a Lotus Leaf, Lily Bulb, Steamed Abalone Grilled with Uni, Skewered on Green Bamboo, Turban Shell Liver Somen

Because I worked for a long time at a hotel, I learned how to prepare foie gras directly from the Western-cuisine chefs. Season the foie gras with…

Abalone and La France Pear

For the final savory course, Nagano Prefecture, along with Yamagata, is a major producer of La France pears. Highland-grown tricolor bell peppers are…

Kamo Eggplant Grilled with Herb Miso Glaze

For the Kamo eggplant grilled with herb miso glaze, we use two kinds of miso. The rosehip miso: rosehip contains twenty times the vitamin content of…

Summer Duck Yawata-Maki, and More

For the appetizer's summer duck Yawata-maki — a burdock roll named for Yawata in Kyoto — to cut the summer duck into string-like strips it works well…

New-Season Burdock Surinagashi

This is the clear-soup course. For the new burdock pureed soup, I add a little cocoa as a secret accent for depth — it pairs surprisingly well with…

Abalone and Herring Roe Matsumae-Zuke

For the ai-zakana (accompanying course), abalone and herring roe matsumae-zuke: the abalone is cleaned, salted, topped with daikon, steamed for about…

Grilled Matsutake Steeped in Chrysanthemum Petals, Uruka-Dressed Dish, Autumn Fruits Set in Amber Jelly, and More

For the dish dressed with uruka (fermented sweetfish innards), the coating is made by desalting ayu uruka and pressing it through a sieve, then…