Aigamo duck jibu-ni with sudare-fu, shiitake, grilled tofu, komatsuna, and wasabi

Jibu-ni is a local dish that developed in the Kaga region, centered on Ishikawa and Kanazawa. Its name has several possible origins — one theory holds that it was devised by Okabe Jibuemon, a quartermaster in charge of provisions for Toyotomi Hideyoshi's army during the Bunroku Campaign, while another says the name comes from the bubbling sound made as it simmers — but neither is certain. Duck meat, sliced thin, is dusted with wheat flour and quickly simmered in a combined dashi together with a Kaga-region wheat gluten shaped with a bamboo mat, lily bulb, and shiitake mushrooms. Coating the meat well with the flour seals in its savory richness and gives the broth its thickness.

Aigamo duck is a delicious ingredient in winter. To preserve its texture we cut it somewhat thick, about 5 millimeters, but be careful not to overcook it. It is also important to pay close attention to preparation steps such as lightly tenderizing with the back of the knife, and to the timing of cooking. This seals in the meat's savory richness, and the simmering liquid is then used to the fullest, without waste.

1. Use the daki-mi cut of the aigamo duck breast, and remove any excess fat.

2. Slice it into somewhat thick hegi-cut planks, and lightly tenderize it with the back of the knife.

3. Pour the combined dashi into a pot, add grilled scallion, grilled tofu, shiitake mushrooms, and sudare-fu, and simmer briefly to let the flavors soak in.

4. Dust the duck from before with wheat flour, add it in, and simmer while taking care not to overcook.

5. Add the pre-prepared komatsuna, and arrange in a serving vessel.

6. Bring the simmering liquid back to a boil, thicken it with wheat flour dissolved in water to finish, and add grated wasabi.