Quail hot pot

Quail hot pot (uzura-nabe) was devised by our founder, and it has been a dish loved by our guests ever since the restaurant opened. It isn't offered year-round — only from around late November through the end of February, when domestic quail is in season — but even at our restaurant, where the menu changes weekly, it's worked in about once a month, appearing in the course menu three or four times each winter. We sometimes hear, 'What, it's not on today?' and quite a few guests specifically reserve it as a separate à la carte order, saying, 'Please be sure to include it.' There's a charming little story behind how it came to be, too — but for that, please do come enjoy it while gathered around our quail hot pot at the restaurant.

1. Butterfly the quail, sear the skin side directly over an open flame, and singe off the fine down. If any down remains it makes the texture very unpleasant, so do this carefully.

2. Cut the breast meat (upper portion) in two and use it as is. Grind the leg meat, neck meat, and the meat near the breastbone (lower portion) into mince, bind it with egg, season with sansho pepper, and shape into dumplings.

3. Lightly simmer the bamboo shoots, fresh shiitake mushrooms, and spinach in a light seasoning, and cut each into bite-sized pieces. Grill the millet-gluten (awa-fu) and cut it into bite-sized pieces as well. Pour the hot pot broth into an earthenware pot, add the ingredients, and simmer; add the green vegetable (spinach) last. Finish with a touch of ginger juice for aroma, and serve in front of the guest.

Shinbashi Kanetanaka