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Milt gratin in a yellow yuzu shell, finished with Saikyo miso

Cleaning pufferfish milt is done carefully, to remove any fishy smell. How it's handled changes the mouthfeel, so it's a step that requires real…

Omi beef, sea urchin, and bamboo shoot roll, grilled, topped with the aroma of sansho flower

The harmony of aromas conducted on the iron griddle is outstanding. Ōmi beef with just the right marbling, bamboo shoot wrapped in the flavor of…

New lotus root kinpira, red and green Manganji peppers fried and dashi-steeped, octopus miso-cured and armor-style grilled

• ¥970

• Cook time 1 hr

Swimming crab, smoked

As part of a fresh exploration of aroma, I set out to drape smoke over swimming crab to bring out its flavor. My restaurant centers on crustaceans…

• Serves 1 · ¥800

• Cook time 30 min

Fresh nori tofu; sweet-savory simmered shrimp

This is the small side-dish course. For the fresh nori tofu, a little tofu coagulant is added, but the soy milk itself is packed so densely that it…

Wild Mountain Vegetables from Shinshū

The new-onion sauce used to dress the wild mountain vegetables is made by blending new-crop onions and cooking them to bring out their sweetness…

Mock kabayaki, novelty pumpkin, mock abalone shiitake, shojin egg, mustard lotus root

For the mock kabayaki, I spread tofu paste flat on nori, wrap it in a single turn of yuba, and grill it with a glaze while sprinkling on sansho…

• ¥30

• Cook time 20 min

Mock tofu, mock sawara yuba, deep-fried stuffed Daitokuji-fu, apricot rings, turnip achara pickle, checkerboard kombu roll, vegetarian tsukune matsukaze, bamboo shoot grilled with sansho sprout, glazed simmered taro, carrot fritters

The apricot rings were included because eating something sweet brings out the flavor of the other dishes. For the turnip achara pickle, I cut the…

Ginkgo-nut rice, new-crop bettarazuke, oyster red miso soup

The rice course is ginkgo-nut rice. Salt alone is enough seasoning, since it lets the ingredient's own flavor come through fully. And when I thought…

• Serves 4 · ¥1,200

• Cook time 1 hr

Konjac and shiitake in tofu dressing

This is the tomezu. Tomezu means a dressed dish; a shojin meal built on one soup and three dishes always includes a dressed dish. For the konjac and…

• ¥70

• Cook time 30 min

Chilled abalone, kuruma shrimp arai

This is the course of dishes chilled in ice water. They are eaten with a sesame sauce made by thinning a soy-sauce base with sesame, and with…

Chilled Eel

This is the chilled eel from the sunomono. The eel is split open and skinned, soaked for an hour in ice water with shochu and salt added, and then…

Sweet shrimp roll wrapped in Chinese yam, flounder layered with kombu, salmon Tsugaru-maki, vinegar-cured mackerel

For the sweet shrimp yōrō-maki, the shrimp is peeled and rolled in wakame, then wrapped in mountain yam that has been peeled katsura-style into a…

Shiitake mushroom in tofu dressing

Kuroge Wagyu Fruit Rolls, Suki-ni Style

Finally, the progression dish. For the Kuroge Wagyu fruit rolls in sukiyaki style, wrap melon, mango, and papaya in slices of wagyu beef, and simmer…

Onjaku, mallard duck loin

I did feel that using onjaku (a course named for the warm stone that gave kaiseki cuisine its name) here might make it a bit heavy, but I went with…

Red Eggplant with Wasabi Dressing

Butterbur set in white vinegar dressing, bamboo shoot and rapeseed blossom cured with kombu, udo pickled in plum vinegar

For the vinegared dish's kombu vinegar: add vinegar to the clear liquid that rises when boiling zenmai (royal fern fiddleheads), and mix in a touch…

Burdock root with perilla seed dressing

Young sweetfish steamed with kelp

This is a vinegared dish. The young ayu is sandwiched between sheets of tart shiraita kombu (thin sheet kelp) and steamed; since this also falls on a…

Ark shell with stream-pattern decorative scoring

As for the tomezakana course: so that I can serve a variety of different things, rather than writing 'vinegared dish,' I make a point of writing…

Shiitake Nabe

Shokuyo cuisine — called macrobiotic in the West — doesn't mean giving up fish and meat; it means eating in balance. We also follow ichibutsu-zentai…