Year-End Tsugani Soba

This is the noodle course from Kochi's New Year cuisine. Year-End Tsugani Soba is a richly flavorful dish that uses the whole of the tsugani — a freshwater crab and close relative of the Chinese mitten crab — caught from around autumn in rivers such as the Shimanto, including its shell and the apron-shaped belly plate, leaving nothing to waste. I've adapted it from tsugani sōmen, a dish widely eaten from central to western Kochi, using soba instead, though other noodles such as udon would work well too. When bringing the tsugani broth to a simmer, you need to be careful, because letting it come to a full boil drives off its wonderful aroma. Its rich flavor also makes it a perfect way to finish off a round of drinks.
Beyond the nationally famous seared bonito, I wanted to introduce more of Kochi's charm, so I devised these updated dishes for the year-end and New Year season. While carrying on Tosa's distinctive tradition of 'okyaku' culture, I changed the seasonings and cooking methods so that everyone from children to the elderly can enjoy them.